Learn everything you need to know to raise and keep your own pet leopard gecko
Common Mistakes New Leopard Gecko Owners Make
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You’ve got your new leopard gecko and want to make sure you give it proper care. We’re here to help by sharing a list of common leopard gecko mistakes new owners make due to lack of experience or knowledge. Avoid these common leopard gecko mistakes with these tips:
Wrong Temperatures
Ambient air temperature in your leopard gecko’s enclosure should be between 80 °F and 90 °F. But, not one consistent temperature through the whole tank.
Make sure you have a temperature gradient between the sides of the tank so your lizard can better regulate its body temperature. The warm side of your enclosure should have an ambient temperature of about 90 °F (32 °C), while the cool side should be about 80 °F (27 °C). Your gecko can move from area to area depending on how much heat it needs at the time.
We recommend using a digital thermometer to make sure you’ve got your temperatures dialed in.
Not using an under tank heater: Proper heating for leopard geckos
Now that we know where we should set the temperatures, what’s the best heat source for a leopard gecko?
Being crepuscular, leopard geckos are not typically active during daylight hours. This means they see little direct sunlight and do not bask in the sun for warmth like many diurnal reptiles (Diurnal means active during daytime.)
A leopard gecko’s need for overhead UVB light is a hotly debated topic in leopard gecko communities. We’re not here to enter the debate, though UVB light won’t hurt. (We do use a UBV bulb since we’re simulating a day/night cycle on a timer.)
Leopard geckos rely on heat from the ground to help digest their food. In a reptile habitat, this effect is usually best achieved with an under the tank heater. Under tank heaters are usually thin sheets that are placed under one side of the tank to to help achieve the temperature gradient we talked about above.
With belly heat from a source under the tank, your leopard gecko will have a much easier time digesting its food. Whether you’re using heat lamps or not, don’t forget to have a heater under the tank as well and your temperatures are in the correct range.
Whether you’re using a heat lamp or heat mat, avoid heat rocks at all costs. Heat rocks are often the biggest mistake new leopard gecko owners make. A heat rock provides concentrated localized heat that poses a threat to burning your lizard if they sit on it.
Your whole habitat starts with what’s on the bottom of the tank. It’s your foundation. It’s your pet’s foundation. Substrate is fundamental, and you don’t want to get this one wrong.
In short, avoid loose substrate. Sand, calcium sand, coconut shavings, wood shavings etc. Just don’t. Sometimes simple is better – and safer. We go into more detail in our full post on safe substrates for leopard geckos. We still use reptile carpet, and have been quite successful with it.
Only One Hide
Everyone needs somewhere to sleep and so do our pets. Most owners include a place for their leopard gecko to hide, feel secure, and sleep. Did you know leopard geckos should have more than one hide?
Ideally, there should be at least two hides: a hot hide and a cold hide; one on the warm side of the tank and one on the cooler side. This allows your lizard to better regulate its body temperature by hanging out on the side it feels most comfortable.
Leopard geckos should also have a moist hide for shedding (sometimes referred to as a humid hide.) The moisture helps loosen the old skin as it molts and avoids stuck skin or poor sheds. Bonus if this is a separate hide.
Improper Handling
Leopard geckos are known for being docile and are fairly hardy for their size. Still, with rough handling, they can be easily injured.
As with any animal, you don’t want to corner it or make it feel threatened. When in danger, a leopard gecko may voluntarily drop its tail to escape and survive. While losing a tail isn’t fatal, it’s stressful for the animal and takes extra care during recovery. You can read more in our post about leopard gecko tails.
Don’t put your lizard in a situation where it could drop from a distance – always try to handle it close to the ground or over a table where it can’t fall too far.
Ideally, your leopard gecko will have a steady diet of insects. Providing a variety of food choices is best for a healthy leopard gecko. That said, you don’t want to offer any insect you find. You can easily find feeder insects like mealworms, super worms, and crickets at most pet stores (or you can order online.)
Your lizard may have preferences, or go through phases of what it likes to eat. Don’t be afraid to mix it up to provide a healthy diet.
When I bought my first leopard gecko, I was told by staff at one of the big box pet stores that leopard geckos don’t need a water bowl because they’re desert dwelling reptiles and don’t drink. This is 100% incorrect.
Sure, leopard geckos do get some moisture from the insects they eat, though, like any animal, leopard geckos need water. For more on the specifics check out our post on why leopard geckos need waterto learn how to keep yours hydrated.
Not Providing Supplements
It’s a good idea to provide calcium supplements, especially to young geckos or breeding females. In early stages, supplements will help prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD.) For females, the extra calcium helps during egg production.
Some keepers keep a small dish of calcium powder in the enclosure so the leopard gecko can lick the powder at its leisure.
Another way of delivering supplements to your leopard gecko is through dusting insects in the powder before placing it in the tank.
You can learn more about supplements and dusting in our feeding guide. Keeping them together or with other species
Housing Leopard Geckos Together
Unless you’re breeding, leopard geckos are best kept alone. Sure, it’s common to see small hatching or juvenile geckos piled on top of each other in pet shops, and some people may think it’s common to house leopard geckos together. Once the geckos become adults, they can be territorial and compete for food or shelter.
Experienced keepers will typically keep one leopard gecko per enclosure, or ensure there is ample space if cohabitating. And if leopard geckos have only passing tolerance for each other, it’s best not to keep them with other species for many of the same reasons.
Leopard Geckos are hardy reptiles and can live long lives with proper husbandry and conditions. Many leopard gecko owners make common mistakes with setup, care, handling, or feeding that can easily be avoided. We hope these tips help you keep your pet in excellent health. Should you ever have a concern, be sure to consult with a qualified vet.
H. Evan Miller is the founder of the Leopard Gecko Habitat. Like many young boys, he developed an early fascination with dinosaurs, and by extension, reptiles. He’s been keeping reptiles as pets since he was a kid (we won’t count the decades) and enjoys sharing his enthusiasm, experience, and knowledge on the topic.
You can read more about his ongoing adventures with science, technology, and a couple of curious kids over at https://STEMtropolis.com.
Noticing signs of stress is the first step towards providing a better environment. Common signs of stress in leopard geckos are decreased appetite, weight loss, excessive hiding, glass swimming and tail waving. Improper setup and poor handling are the root cause of most stress factors.
Leopard geckos have impressive tails, which serve several vital purposes. Much of the leopard gecko’s body language can be seen in its tail. From a warning, sign of aggression, show of excitement, or a signal it’s going to pounce, you can see it all in the tail. The tail is a defense mechanism and emergency…
